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Omaha World Herald
Friday, February 28, 1997

Dining Out
By Jim Delmont

Panda House II a Worthy Successor

Panda House at 144th street and West Center Road has been reliably one of Omaha’s better Chinese restaurants. Now Panda House has branched out with an attractive downtown location at 16th Farnam Streets.

The second Panda House location, known simply as Panda House II, has Pang Shou Chian as chef - a kitchen master who formerly worked at the Asia World Plaza Hotel in Taiwan and at Fu Lin in Los Angeles.

Panda House II is open seven days a week in a street corner, two level establishment that seats in 130 in a quiet, tasteful décor with exemplary service.

The menu is enormous - fully 129 items, plus 28 house specialties, plus a 55-item lunch list. There are also Family and “Imperial Banquet” dinners for up to six people, to be ordered in advanced.

Duck entrees take a long time at most Chinese establishments and usually must be ordered in advance. But “Rose Duck,” half a boneless duck sautéed in plum sauce, can be ready in 15 minutes here. The restaurant does a roasted, crispy duck here, too, with a five-spice sauce and pine nuts ($9.75).

Most entrees are in the $7 to $9 range and come with steamed white rice or fried rice.

Alcoholic beverages are inexpensive - Sutter Home wines are $2.25 a glass. With varieties at $2.75 (Chardonney is $2.75 a glass, as is Tsintao Beer, Sake for two is $4 and plum wine is $2.50 a glass.

The Panda House staff will substitute or change items or sauces at your request for entrees only.

An interesting entrée is the Lamb in Two Flavors. Thin slices of lean lamb in a nonspicy scallion brown sauce side by side with sliced lamb prepared with a hot sauce and peapods ($9.25).

Crispy Shrimp with sautéed broccoli were spicy, sweet, and crisp, in a Hunan Sauce ($9.25). The tangerine chicken is deep fried and served in a spicy reddish-orange sauce with little rounds of orange rind. It was light and crisp, not a bit heavy as these dishes can be at some places.

The Moo Shu Beef and Pork dishes here are very good, with a light, pleasant plum sauce to smooth on the stuffed crepes. The sauce is not heavy or sweetly thick - it is light and refreshing ($7.95).

We also enjoyed the Seafood Casserole (jumbo shrimp, scallions, crab meat, bean curd, and mixed vegetables in a brown sauce) and Triple Delights with Garlic Sauce (scallops, chicken, and shrimp). The Chow Mein comes with wide, crisp, home-made noodles and thick chunks of meat ($4.95) are crisp and delicious.

Vegetarians can choose from among 10 regular items, plus whatever regular items the kitchen may be willing to change and substitute for them.

Table service is tasteful, with large pink, folded cloth napkins and lovely plates. A novelty are the beautiful colored flower bursts, carved from radishes that decorate food plates.

Panda House II differs a bit from Panda House I by offering more heavy bean-curd dishes and more vegetarian items. It is a gracious, handome spot, with excellent service that can accommodate well-dressed Orpheum visitors or casually attired downtowners. Lunch business is very brisk.

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